How to see the frozen curtains near Munising in winter: where the Eben caves are, why the Grand Island crossing kills people, when the ice is at its best, and what to carry.
Mid January through late February in most years, with early March often producing the largest formations. The formations need several consecutive weeks below freezing to build, so a mild December pushes the whole window later.
No. The Eben Ice Caves are inland in the Hiawatha National Forest, about 25 miles west of Munising, and are reached by a one mile walk. The ice formations at Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore are frozen seeps on the Lake Superior cliffs, and the famous Grand Island caves require crossing lake ice.
The National Park Service does not measure or approve lake ice and does not consider any route safe. Wind can break up a mile of ice overnight, and shelf ice near shore is undercut by waves. People have died attempting the crossing. View the cliff formations from land, or go with a guide who works this shoreline daily.
About a mile each way from the plowed lot on Eben Junction Road, with a steep and usually icy final descent into the canyon. Budget one to two hours round trip plus time at the wall, and wear traction devices.
There is no fee for the Eben Ice Caves. Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore charges an entrance fee, and backcountry camping in the park requires a permit. Nothing about the ice formations themselves requires a permit.
Sometimes there is space behind a curtain, and that is exactly where falling ice lands. Ice sheds without warning on sunny afternoons and during thaws. If you step behind a formation, wear a helmet and do not linger.
